This summer, I had the opportunity to explore Kyoto for a week. I went through a week being inspired, endlessly discovering, and constantly creating.
I stayed at Maana Kiyomizu, a modern, carefully curated apartment tucked in a quiet neighborhood south of Gion. Most of the pieces displayed here are hand-made by Japanese. I couldn't help but feel and touch each of them.
Pieces of Japan
Maana's owners have a retail store POJ (Pieces of Japan) next to the apartment that brings out the stories of Japanese craftsmen. Here, I learnt the first steps to Kintsugi and started my appreciation for the material Urushi.
When I was asked what I know about Kinstugi at the class, I responded, "Not much at all. To me, it's about fixing a piece when it's broken. Instead of throwing something away and buying something new, you fix it and use it forever". To me, that's how we should treat everything around us in life. There is beauty and romanticism in surrounding yourself with objects that will be with you for life.
A few days later, I found this quote on a website:
I also love this paragraph in a book I bought at Tsutaya Daikanyama, Tokyo:
"When I work with Kintsugi, I feel harmony with nature. The multiform arts of lacquerware, including kintsugi, employ processes using the sap of the lacquer tree. When I consider this fact, I feel profound gratitude and respect for nature."
- Hiroki Kiyokawa, The Spirituality of Kinstugi
About Urushi 漆
My biggest inspiration was when I had the morning at ASAHIYAKI, watching a demonstration of a Master Potter throw a bowl, then experience throwing Asahi's clay on my own. I threw 6 bowls from the 1kg of clay, and chose 3 that Asahi would trim and fire for me in their climbing kiln. They will send the fired pieces to me in 3 months. I am full of anticipation and I am extremely grateful for this invaluable experience.
About ASAHIYAKI 朝日焼
I did not plan most of my days in Kyoto. When traveling, I enjoy walking, discovering and experiencing episodes of chance encounters and serendipitous moments. That was how I came across Kanjiro Kawai's house. I was walking around the neighborhood when I chanced upon a sign pointing to a potter's house.
Kanjiro Kawai’s House is a museum dedicated to the life and work of the modern Japanese potter and ceramist (1890 - 1966). It was fascinating to walk through a house and see a climbing kiln at the courtyard.
An emotional moment overtook me when I read this sentence from his book, " Anyone can make beautiful things, says Kawai-san. The capacity for expression and creation is with everyone, but not all of us realize this. We work and produce in spite of ourselves. The unknown self drives us on always.".
Kawai Kanjiro 河井寬次郎
Did you know that Raku is not merely a technique in pottery firing, but it's named after a family who started the technique of hand building a chawan and firing it using binchotan charcoal in a custom built kiln?
I visited the Raku museum on this trip. As I looked at the family tree, I was surprised to learn that the Raku family is still alive and carrying on its artisanal tradition of making raku ware. The Raku museum is beautiful, with raku ware displayed that have been made over 15 generations. To think that adjacent to where I visited, the 15th and 16th generation of the family are still making raku ware, with the special kiln not far from where I was.
I thought about the immense pressure one must feel if born in the Raku family, having to retain the family and country tradition yet pushing for innovation within a set of constraints. When I returned, I read the journal by Kichizaemon Raku XV and watched a short clip about Kichizaemon Raku XVI. This further elevated my respect for the Raku family.
The Raku Family
Books are dear to me and each time I travel, I will bring back memories in the form of books. Here are the books I purchased during my trip.
About the Books
Lastly, I love Japanese comfort food. My most emotional moment was when I tucked into a very simple dish of Omurice. The taste of good Omurice welled me up as I remembered Chef san dancing in front of the stove whenever he makes this makanai for me. I worked at Yumi Japanese restaurant 4 nights a week in Edinburgh for 3 years over college. Chef san and Yumi san were like parents to me. Omurice was my favorite dish. Even though it is a simple dish, Chef san would often conjure up the anticipation with his dance whenever he cooked this dish, knowing that it's my favorite food.
Here are some photos of my other favorite comfort food I had during my trip.
Top: Curry rice, Green tea soba, Obanzai
Middle: 9 types of Tofu, Chawanmushi, Ramen
Bottom: Ochazuke, Oden, Omurice
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